Fashion & Racism

 FASHION & RACISM

-    Bhavika Jain

Historically, the relationship between the fashion industry and black culture has always been complex. We must remember that the fashion industry is built on the subjugation of black and brown bodies, established by a structural form of racism rooted in a fraught colonial past. Many fashion houses, brands, and celebrities seem only too happy to appropriate, whitewash and profit off of black culture without respectfully acknowledging their history, striving to diversify and structurally transform their company nor supporting any POC staff they may already have. 

The fashion industry makes huge profits from the exploitation of black and brown women. The fast fashion industry has been reliant on the exploitation of garment workers since its conception.Brands have created a production model that keeps garment workers poor and working in unsafe conditions to maximise their own profits. The buying practices of fast fashion include turning a blind eye to illegal subcontracting and allowing forced and unpaid overtime. These practices have incentivised the erosion of garment worker rights by manufacturers and government. The economic exploitation that fast fashion is reliant upon is a legacy of colonialism. From the 1500s until the middle of the 20th century, European imperialism was a way to create extractive states and oppress non-white people. 

Most recently, big names like Stephen Gan, editor of V Magazine, have been called out by industry watchdog Diet Prada for deeply culturally insensitive costumes and racism in the workplace amongst an array of other issues such as misogyny and homophobia. Comme des Garcons also became subject to outrage and issued an apology after they sent white models down the runway wearing cornrow wigs during their Autumn/Winter 2020 Menswear show, despite Balmain and Marc Jacobs making similar hair faux-pas in 2017 and receiving harsh backlash online. 

The historical and cultural importance of black culture and talent and its monumental influence in fashion today must be acknowledged. With this being said, it’s also extremely important to still recognize the inequities of the acceptance of black style and culture and to continually support POCs who have been marginalized, misrepresented, or stereotyped by the fashion world. 

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